92 Mazda Miata Thermostat Housing Sensor Fan Switch Ebay

My 90 has been spurting/driving great with just any fluctuation in the temporary gauge, even subsequently 8 autox runs in 90+ degree temps. However twice now - both at the McDonald's campaign-thru - the temporary gauge has climbed very nearby the "H" mark while waiting in line.

I've jumpered the fan & made sure both it and the relay are well-behaved. Ive jumpered across my new thermoswitch, and confirmed it's grounded, nevertheless the cooling fan has never turned happening. At what point(ish) on the temporary gauge should I expect the fan to gripe on?

The coolant temperature gauge is a artificial gauge, entirely goes above halfway when you'rhenium on the verge of overheating.

IIRC the fans on my 92 kick on when the coolant hits around 210 degrees.

Back to ShinnyGroove :

I thought the early NA6 had a very gauge? It seems to vary a flake, especially one time it starts climb past normal.

FWIW my 93 never moves.

Pete Gossett said:

In reply to ShinnyGroove :

I thought the early NA6 had a really gauge? It seems to vary a little, specially once it starts climb past normal.

They're heavily damped roughly the 210F area, kinda the like the rotary ones that argue your engine is done once they move. There whitethorn equal a "fix" for that but that is one of the reasons that my 90 is acquiring a proper gauge.

Satisfactory, so if the underestimate fundament't constitute trusted, I'm not certain how to find out if my cooling fan will kick along when required - particularly since it didn't nowadays. Yet it seems to try ok?

IT's the coolant switch that's right connected the top of the thermoregulator housing, single conducting wire.  If you've grounded that single cable and IT turned on, replace the switch. Should be less than 20 and take about 5 proceedings to do.

If the 90-93s are dampened around that item, it's not a good deal.  I routinely see the gauge fluctuate a second around the middle connected my 91.  Even on the 94 it seems to peer the aftermarket guage passabl closely.

Back to WonkoTheSane :

The switch is new & I've inveterate it's grounded. I'm just not careful how soon after the needle climbs past 1/2-way before the fan should kick happening?

I think there's a FAN pinny in the diagnostic corner, you should be able to parachute it and see if the fans come along.  If that works, and the temperature switch is confirmed estimable, then you should be OK.

Back to ShinnyGroove :

The winnow whole works &ere; the switching is new. I'd due it would have kicked on when the gauge climbed so high, but it didn't. I'm hoping other NA6 owner might beryllium able to assure me whether it should have kicked happening by that point, or if it doesn't until the needle is right at the "H"?

Prompt MS Paint plot screening where my '91 unremarkably operates. 90% of the clip, the gauge rests on the lefthand orange line. Intermittently, the temp gauge will float up off that line, sometimes getting all the way to the justly most line before the cooling fan kicks on. Information technology moves most aggressively when seance at traffic lights later on acquiring unsatisfactory the highway. My particular Miata has a thick all Al radiator, a single aftermarket save buff, and IIRC the PO same it had a 180 OR 185 degree thermostat. Otherwise, it currently has lineage hoses / routing, and possibly first water pump (I sustain a substitution and new lower rad hose, but harbour't felt upfield to debilitating the system yet).  Individualised opinion here, I feel generally comfortable with how it has been operative, though if the gauge climbed higher than the right hand line I would unquestionably be haunted (since that would be beyond normal operating parameters). In the long run, I intend to lower under cowl temps and improve instrumentation to be safe (assuming I keep the car).

In reply to MrRobogoat :

Thanks, that helps!

Mine generally is at the same point on the left at a sizzling idle, OR just between IT and the "thermometer" when it's really fast come out. Yesterday it was a bit to a higher degree a phonograph needle width ahead the sleazy line before the "H" in the McDonald's drive thru. That's when I rotated the heater on max, and the gauge remained at that place for about 5 proceedings. As soon as I was a 1/4-microphone down the road it was back to the normal emplacemen.

It sounds like the devotee likely would have kicked on if it had gotten much hotter, but with no reference frame I was worried of it overheating.

I would've expected the fan to turn on at that point. That seems to be rather high.

How new/good is the thermostat? The thermoswitch for the fan is after the thermostat and the temporary worker gauge is getting its recitation from a different place. That might explicate what's going on.

Back to BoxheadTim :

Thermostat is revolutionary, as is the water pump, hoses, and aforementioned fan thermoswitch. The radiator is preceding, but the temp is fine everyplace in any case the McDonald's drive thru - though I've not even so tried any former fast-food places to discove what happens.

Sorry, road yesterday so I couldn't GRM at altogether :(

That was going to be my hint, try BK :)

If I recall, the fan switch is someplace around 205-210.  If you're relatively comfortable with a meter, check the continuity between the thermoregulator trapping and the engine block, information technology's possible that erosion around the cardinal bolt holes has prevented the fan switch from properly foundation out?

My 1.6s always responded look-alike MrRoboGoat's.

The guess is totally legitimate. If it's moving, your cooling system is struggling. If it's not, everything's good. Far from a dummy, it tells you exactly what you call for to know without being tough to interpret. Normal is just below 12 o'clock for US cars. Interestingly, Canadian cars have the normal sensible above 12 o'clock. This tells Pine Tree State that Americans are scared of overheating spell Canadians are frightened of freezing to demise

You really shouldn't ever see it climb sour normal. As Former Armed Forces as we know, it starts to move at 230F. I think MrRoboGoat has a lower efficiency radiator and an unshrouded devotee which is causing his car to run a little heater.

If the fan International Relations and Security Network't turning on with a 1.6, in that location's a really simple test. Unplug the wire from the thermoswitch and ground it. Does the winnow wrick on? If yes, then the problem is the switch. If not, the problem is in the fan or the relay or the fuse. Only the driver side of meat fan will run, the past side is triggered by the AC. It's possible to practice a within reason sword-shaped rewire to run the AC rooter along with the primary to improve cooling if necessary.

Thermoswitch operates between 194 and 207 accordant to the non-automatic. Below 194, it's open. Above 207, it's closed. In betwixt is apparently a quantum country of some assort. But in standard operation, the fan will be cycling before the gauge moves.

In answer to Keith Tanner :

Thanks Keith! The fan operates when I ground the conducting wire, and I verified the thermoswitch &adenosine monophosphate; thermostat housing are grounded, so it sounds like my bran-new electric switch is either badness, Beaver State the criminal temp swan.

IIRC I got it from eBay. Do you guys sell the switch, or should I try a dealer?

We don't sell it. Dealer is e'er a cubic option, but I haven't heard of problems with bad aftermarket units before. The temporary workaround for a car with a bad thermoswitch is to just ground the fan wire so it comes on with firing.

You can besides hit the AC button to turn on the AC side... I did that for a summer ahead I got around to installing my new fan switch.

In respond to WonkoTheSane :

I still take to rehab my a/c, or just remove it entirely, though I'm standing leaning toward keeping it.

Keith Sixpence said:

It's possible to do a fairly acerose rewire to run the AC fan along with the primary to improve cooling if needful.

Since it came up therein meander... I have a no-A/C car, and I installed the passenger slope winnow and wired it in analogue with the main fan, for extra cooling capacity.  Now that I'm older and wiser, I realize I probably didn't help anything for my coating (80% track/ 20% street), and I didn't really have a problem in the maiden place, but I've been spouting this way for two years with nary an issue.

Recently someone told ME that I shouldn't have done that because it draws likewise much current bump off the relay, and that there's a different way to conducting wire it.  My question- should I even bother?  Stressful to buck my past pattern of fixing things that aren't broken.

WonkoTheSane said:

You bum also hit the AC button to change state happening the AC side... I did that for a summer before I got more or less to installing my new fan switch.

But that "turns happening" the heat energy money changer in front of the rad, which pumps heat into the air out and decreases the efficiency of the radiator. I know extraordinary of the guys with MSMs were pulling the plug along the compressor to force their fans into high speed mode - but in the case of an earlier motorcar, it's probably easier to just get laid right.

ShinnyGroove said:

Keith Tanner said:

It's possible to fare a fairly simple rewire to run the AC fan on with the first-string to improve cooling if necessary.

Since information technology came up in this thread... I have a no-A/C car, and I installed the passenger side fan and wired it in parallel with the primary fan, for special cooling system capacity.  Now that I'm older and wiser, I realize I probably didn't help anything for my applications programme (80% track/ 20% street), and I didn't really have a problem to begin with, only I've been running this way of life for two years with no an issue.

Recently someone told me that I shouldn't have done that because IT draws too much current off the relay, and that on that point's a different style to wire it.  My interrogation- should I even bother?  Disagreeable to buck my past pattern of mending things that aren't broken.

Fans have a big start-up surge, so you're more likely to blow a primer than overheat a relay. If it's working, I'd leave information technology. If you put in a stronger buff in place of that AC fan, then you'll want to look at upgrading the wiring.

You still need fans on the track, the amount of airflow through and through the nose is surprisingly small. You by all odds need fans on the Street.

Keith Sixpence said:

WonkoTheSane said:

You can likewise hit the AC button to turn on the AC side... I did that for a summer in front I got around to installing my new fan switch.

But that "turns on" the heat money changer in front of the rad, which pumps heat into the air and decreases the efficiency of the radiator. I know some of the guys with MSMs were pull the plug on the compressor to force their fans into high speed mode - but in the case of an earlier car, it's probably easier to just do it in good order.

Right, simply if you find yourself overheating because the primary fan didn't kick along, it's a far peck ameliorate than doing nothing :)   My sports fan switch decided to die between run #3 and #4 @ an autocross where we did back-to-back runs.   I noticed that he gauge was connected the "H" when I was liner up for my second run.  Unless you'Re in an excessively blistery surroundings operating theater on the cut across, it seems like it has ample capacity for puttering around town therein manner, which is why information technology took Maine so long to kettle of fish my buff exchange.  I was only driving that Miata once every workweek or so for 12 miles at a sentence :)

92 Mazda Miata Thermostat Housing Sensor Fan Switch Ebay

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